Seevilla hotel at the Altausseer See

For this photo I would have preferred to go much much closer to the water to get more of a reflection. But as I mentioned with the previous photo from here, I could not. The piles of snow would just not allow it. So for this, I was actually standing in a spot where they pushed off the snow from the road. It crated a bit of a platform. I did sunk into the snow a few times, but only a little.

This photo was taken at the Altausseer See in Austria. On the left you can see the Seevilla hotel. It is a 6 tile panorama, combined in Lightroom, finished in Photoshop.

And here are few details:

Cropping photos for Instagram

The maximum size of a photo on Instagram is 1080x1350px. I like to have the photos as big as possible, so I use this resolution for them. It also works quite well on modern smartphones.

I create three versions:
Cover photo – a crop from the full photos, showcasing the most interesting part, as a single image in 1080x1350px resolution
Full photo – a crop where I add white space around the photo, so full photo can be showcased
Split version – a crop into multiple photos, that shows the full photo and visitors can slide between the parts to see it.

Like this I think I get the best options of sharing the photo. Those who only scroll by will see the cover photo mostly, those who are interested can swipe through the other and see more.

Cover photo

This one is simple. Choose the crop tool, put 1080×1350 into the ratio box in the top left (or 4 to 5, as it’s the same ratio). Then just move and resize the crop box as you need for your photo and hit enter. Now you just need to resize the result to 1080×1350 and maybe apply some sharpening. I like to do this with TK actions, but any way is fine.

Full photo

Go back to the original photo. Before cropping, change the background color selection to white. This is so after we crop, Photoshop fill the background with white. Just hid the D key to reset the colors. Choose crop with the same ratio as before. Now hold down ALT key and drag on one of the corners of the crop box to make it bigger. Do so until the sides of the crop box snap onto the sides of the photo. Hit enter to confirm. Now resize to 1080×1350, sharpen and save.

Split version

This one is a bit more complicated. First you have to decide into how many parts you want to split the photo. It really depends on the photo. A normal non-panorama shot works best when split into 2 parts. For a panorama you would need more. But it’s easy to just try out different option.

Return to original image. Choose the crop tool, and for the ratio calculate your width based on the number of slices. So if you want 2 slices it would be 2160×1350 (or 8×5), for 3 slices 3240×1350 (or 12×5) and so on. Just look at the crop box and choose one that best fits your image. Confirm with enter when you chosen.

Now we will add guides to the photo, to see where we need to slice it. Go under View/New guide layout and in the window that opens choose Columns and then write in the number of slices you want. The guide lines will show up. If you don’t see them, go into the menu under View/Extras or hit Ctrl+H to toggle visibility.

There are multiple option how to save the slices now, and I will show you two. First one is using the crop tool. Choose it, set the ration back to 1080×1350 (or 4×5) and move the crop box until it aligns wit the first slice. It will snap to the guide lines automatically. Now crop, resize and sharpen and once you save, undo it all with the history window, until you are back to the guide lines. Then just repeat for every slice.

The second option is the slice tool. If you hold down the left mouse button on the crop tool selection, it will give you the option to choose slice tool. Then just create slices by using the guide lines. Each time you create one, there will be a little number in the top left corner of it. One you you have all, resize the photo so it’s 1350px in height and sharpen it afterwards. Choose File/Export/Save for web and once confirmed, it will save every slice as a separate photo.

Sunlit reflection at the Altausee

And here is the photo I used as the example in yesterday’s post. It was a very sunny bright day with the sun high in the sky at that moment. I actually wanted to get much closer to the water, and include something more in the foreground here. But I could not find a spot where to get closer. All around the lake was 1m+ of snow and you just could not get through.

This is a single exposure, with second one only used to remove sun flares. Edited in Lightroom and finished in Photoshop.

Removing lens flares using multiple photos

So this was my situation. I did not notice the flare in this photo. The sun was a bit to the left here, and with no clouds in the sky, it was so bright, I could see nothing on the camera screen. But as you can see there few are big flares and on spots that are not easy to correct in Photoshop. So what to do?

What I did was use a photo, that I took from the same location, but with different settings, that did not have flares on the same spots. As long as you did not move too much between the two photos, you can align them, even if you zoomed out or in. All you need is that the same area is in both photos. You can try to align manually, but Photoshop align layers function can work very well here.

Here I used a much wider shot, and while this one also has flares, they are on different spots. I loaded both photos into Photoshop. The one I wanted to fix placed on bottom. Then I locked the layer (choose layer and click the lock icon above the layer list). Now I could align them without distorting the one I want to fix. I just chosen both layers (holding down CTRL and clicking on each layer) and aligned them using Edit/Auto-Align Layers and choosing the Auto projection.

This was the result. I cropped the layer now, to get rid of the extra part I did not need (CTRL+click on the bottom layer thumbnail, and then Image/Crop to crop based on selection). Now by using a mask, I just hid the top layer with all black mask. Using the brush I painted with white in it, where the lens flares were. There is one more thing to fix, and that is to match the brightness and the color of the corrected areas. Her I used brightness/contrast to brighten the area and color balance to make it a bit warmer. You have to use the adjustment layers as clipping masks, so they affect only the layer under them (Alt+Ctrl+G with the layer selected, or Layer/Create Clipping mask).

And with the lens flares fixed, one can continue with further edits.

Snow covered Hallstatt

I visited Hallstatt in Austria few times before, but I always wanted to go back during winter, to get some nice photos of it covered with snow. And with a fellow photographer Pedro Kin (from pedrokinphotography.com) we planed to do a road trip there last Friday. But, not the amount of snow that fallen the last week was so big, that the roads into Hallstatt were closed. So we decided to postpone.

And we postponed it to yesterday, when we did the trip. And wow, there was still a lot of snow. We visited Hallstatt and a nearby lake Altausseer See. We got some nice photos, that I will share mine with you here on the blog. The biggest problem actually was to get to some places, as getting through a 1m or more of snow without sinking into it was not possible. Should have bought snow shoes:)

Today’s photo is a typical view of Hallstat, but this time with all the snow. It is a 2 shot panorama, each shot from three exposures. I was a bit lucky here, as for some reason the light on the church tower was off in one of the photos. As it always creates an overexposed area, I was quite happy how it looks without it. Shot’s combined into panorama in PTgui, edited in Photoshop.